Textile knowledge: In fabric fibers, do you think that only spandex is flexible?

Elastic filaments are an essential material in our lives. Without it, there would be no women's stockings, no summer swimwear, no tight-fitting leggings ... It can be said that elastic fibers have made indelible contributions for humans to show their stature and enjoy the comfort of dressing.

The elastic fiber we often see in the content of clothing is “ spandex ” . However, if you think that spandex is only spandex, that would be a mistake. We textile people tirelessly work hard to develop new fibers and new technologies, and strive to contribute more to the human dressing business ... (It seems to be far away ~~ hurry back)

 

As defined by American Society for Testing Materials ASTM analysis: elastic fiber yarn at room temperature, the material is stretched repeatedly to at least twice its original length, and after stress relief, can be quickly restored to the original length of a fiber, The following 6 kinds of fibers can be called elastic fibers.

 

A diene-based elastomer fiber (rubber yarn)

Diene elastic fiber commonly known as rubber or rubber yarn, the elongation is generally between 100% to 300% . The main chemical composition is polyisoprene vulcanizate, which has good resistance to high temperature, acid and alkali, abrasion resistance and other chemical physical properties. It is widely used in socks, ribbing sleeves and other knitting industries.

 

Rubber filaments are elastic fibers that were used in the early days. Because they are mainly made into coarse yarns, their use in woven fabrics is limited.

 

2 polyurethane fiber (spandex)

Polyurethane elastic fiber refers to a fiber made of a block copolymer made of polyurethane as its main component. The abbreviation spandex is used in our country, the initial trade name of the United States was Spaddex , and it was later renamed as Lycra Lycra , and the European name was Elastane , Japan. The name is Neolon and Germany is called Dorlastan .

 

Its elasticity comes from the block copolymer network structure whose molecular structure consists of " soft " and " hard " segments. This kind of fiber varies with block copolymers, and the spinning process is different. After forming different “ zone ” network structures, the elasticity and dyeing and finishing performance are also different.

 

3 polyether ester elastic fiber

Polyether ester elastic fiber is an elastic fiber made of polyester and polyether copolymers by melt spinning. It was first produced by Teijin Corporation in 1990 . The polyether ester elastic fiber not only has higher strength and elasticity, but also has elongation of 50 %. The elasticity of the medium elastic fiber is comparable to that of spandex, and the melting point is also high. It is blended with PET fiber and can be at 120 °C ~130 °C. Under dyeing, polyester fibers can also be processed into elastic textiles. In addition, they have excellent light resistance, chlorine bleach resistance, acid and alkali resistance, etc. are better than ordinary spandex. Due to good acid and alkali resistance, fabrics made from it and polyester can also be alkali-reduced to improve the drape of the fabric.

 

This fiber also has the advantages of cheap raw materials, easy production and processing, and is a kind of fiber with more promising development.

 

4 polyolefin elastic fiber ( DOW XLA fiber)

Polyolefin elastic fibers are produced by melt spinning from a polyolefin thermoplastic elastomer. XLA , introduced by DOW Chemical in the United States in 2002 , is the first commercially available polyolefin elastomer fiber produced by melt-spinning an ethylene - octene copolymer ( POE ) catalyzed in situ by a metallocene catalyst. . It has good elasticity, 500% elongation at break, high temperature resistance to 220 °C, resistance to chlorine bleaching and strong acid and strong alkali treatment, and it has strong UV degradation resistance. Its production process is relatively simple, the raw material price is lower than that of spandex, and at the same time, the production process has almost no pollution and is easy to recycle.

 

As polyolefin elastomer fibers have a variety of excellent properties, they have become more widely used in recent years.

 

5 composite elastic fiber ( T400 fiber)

Contex ( ST100 composite elastic fiber, marketed as T400 elastic fiber) is a new type of two-component new composite elastic fiber made from DuPont Sorona as the main raw material and ordinary PET through advanced composite spinning technology; it has natural permanent spiral curl And excellent bulkiness, elasticity, elastic recovery rate, color fastness, and a particularly soft feel, can be individually woven alone, but also with cotton, viscose, polyester, nylon and other interwoven, forming a variety of species style .

 

 

It not only solves the problems of the traditional spandex yarn not easy to dye, excess elasticity, weaving complexity, inconsistent fabric size, and easy aging during use, and can be directly weaved on jets, water jets, and arrow looms without having to be like spandex. In order to reduce the yarn cost and increase the quality uniformity of the product, we must first make the covered yarn before weaving on the machine.

 

6 hard elastic fiber

The above-mentioned elastic fibers are all soft elastic fibers and undergo large deformation and recovery under relatively low stress. From the thermodynamic point of view, the elasticity comes from the degree of freedom (or confusion) of the molecular chain, that is, the change in the entropy of the system, so the crystallinity of the above fibers is very low. However, some fibers made under special processing conditions, such as polypropylene ( PP ), polyethylene ( PE ), etc., are not easily deformed at low stress (because they have a higher modulus) but are higher. Under stress, especially at lower temperatures, there is also better elasticity, so this kind of fiber is called hard elastic fiber.

 

The deformation and recovery of hard elastic fibers are significantly different from those of elastic fibers. For example, when the hard elastic PP fiber is stretched for the second time immediately after stretching, the modulus and strength of the PP fiber are decreased by a large amount. However, if the stress is removed after a certain period of time, or after the temperature is raised, the second stretch is performed. Stretching, then its deformation recovery is basically close to the first curve. This is because when the hard elastic fiber is stretched and recovered, not only the stretching and retracting deformation of the long segment of the soft elastic fiber crimping molecule occurs, but also some changes in the micropore structure are involved in the stretching process. The wafer network structure has also changed. Only after these structural changes are gradually restored can they return to their original state. Therefore, they only undergo deformation recovery under high pressure, and are called hard elastic fibers.

 

At present, hard elastic fibers are not widely used in textiles, but because their elastic characteristics are different from soft elastic fibers, special textiles can be developed.

 



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