Abstract: This paper introduces the precautions and process requirements for the production process of polyester/spandex blended fabrics (including pre-treatment, pre-formed, dyeing, and finishing), such as the control of process parameters such as cold stack, preset shape, and dyeing. After being processed by this technology, the problem of reproducibility and poor color fastness of the polyester/ammonia composite fabrics, and the problem of loss of elasticity and high strength under high temperature conditions of spandex are overcome.
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Keywords : blended fabric dyeing and finishing disperse dyes polyester spandex introduction
With the continuous improvement of living standards, people have more and more functional requirements for apparel fabrics. For traditional winter clothing that only has warming effect, its bloated style and lack of new style has been difficult to meet the demands of consumers. The public expects the emergence of more innovative and dynamic winter apparel fabrics. Today, spandex-containing elastic fabrics are very popular in the domestic and foreign markets. This kind of product has high elasticity and excellent resilience, soft handfeel, comfortable wear, easy to absorb sweat and no static electricity. Under normal circumstances, the spandex content of this type of product is small, and it is always in the inner layer. Whether it is dyed or not will not affect the appearance of the fabric. However, in the stretched state, the spandex that is not dyed or dyed poorly will show whitening. , make people feel the fly in the ointment.
The company developed the "Everest Everest Jiangnan" stretch fabric product by using 75D polyester filament and 40D spandex filament twisted yarn and 300D polyester filament and 40D spandex filament twisted filament as raw materials. The product has the characteristics of high fabric strength, good elasticity, dimensional stability, stiffness, strong hair feel, plump handle, soft luster, and good color fastness, and it is free from the shackles of the traditional winter fabric style. Due to the adoption of a fine dyeing and finishing process, the dyeing reproducibility and poor color fastness of the polyester/spandex composite fabrics are solved, and the elasticity and strength damage of the spandex under high temperature conditions are solved.
1 Test
1.1 Materials and Instruments
Fabric: "Zhufeng Jiangnan" stretch fabric, twisted with 75D polyester filament and 40D spandex, twisted 300D polyester filament and 40D spandex filament, 460 pieces/10cm x 300 pieces/10cm, 166cm, 198g/ M2.
Instrument: HLM2082 cold stacker, OS-2000 flat width desizing machine, UT-SP-2L high-pressure high-speed liquid jet dyeing machine, force root stenter, German mano weft machine, Datacolor-SF600 color matching system, H5KS single-arm strength tester, Huazhou electronic friction tester Y571LA6.
Reagents: Liquid caustic soda, deoiled TF-104, hydrogen peroxide, penetrating agent JFC, TF-127K, glacial acetic acid, acidic reducing agent TF-110D, chelating dispersant TF-510C, sodium tripolyphosphate, high-temperature leveling agent TF-203, fluff softener, TG-lOHN water repellent, antistatic agent, antibacterial finish TF-619, moisture-absorbent perspiration TF-620.
1.2 Process flow
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Blank billet rolling→cold heap→plain desizing→preform→dyeing→soaping→heat setting→testing→winding packaging.
1.3 Test
Breaking strength: According to GB/T 3923.1-1997 "Textile fabrics tensile properties Part 1 Determination of breaking force and elongation at break";
Tear strength: According to GB IT 3917.2-2009 "Tear property of textile fabrics - Part 2: Determination of tear strength of trouser specimens (single slits)";
Wet rubbing fastness: According to GB/T 3920-2008 "Textiles color fastness test rubbing fastness" Determination, with the assessment of color gray card rating;
Washing color fastness: According to GB/T 3921.3-1997 "Textiles color fastness test washing fastness: Test 3" measured, with a rating of stained with a gray card rating; washed according to GB/T 8629-2001 (IS0 6330 -200) "Household washing and drying procedures for textile testing" operation.
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2 Results and Discussion
2.1 Spandex Performance and Selection
Spandex has two kinds of polyacetate type and polyether type, polyether type has good elasticity, elastic elongation up to 500% to 700%, good alkali resistance, but poor high temperature resistance and mechanical resistance, often with nylon fiber Blended; Polyester-type elastic elongation up to 500%, poor resistance to alkali, and high temperature and mechanical resistance. Polyester fabrics need high-temperature and high-pressure overflow dyeing, and the drawing is large. Therefore, polyacetal-type spandex is used. The physical indexes are shown in Table 1.
Table 1 Physical Specifications of Two Denier Spandex Fibers
2.2 Pre-processing
Spandex and polyester fibers use a large amount of fiber oil and silk oil additives in the spinning process, including some silicon-containing additives. In order to increase the smoothness of the warp surface and increase the wear resistance and strength during the weaving process, the chemical fiber fabric is To reduce the phenomenon of broken ends, the warp yarns before weaving generally need to be sizing and oiled. Therefore, if the pretreatment is not clean, dyes and precipitated polyester oligomers can easily form color spots and tar spots that are difficult to remove.
2.2.1 Cold Reactor
Process recipe / (gL-1):
Liquid caustic 100
Hydrogen peroxide 2
Penetrant JFC 1
Chelating dispersant TF-5lOC 3
Deoiling TF-104 5
Temperature/°C 25
Speed/(m.min-1) 40
Processing time/h ≥24
The dispersant TF-510C can prevent equipment and fabric contamination, has scale and scale function, and has good compatibility with de-slurrying solution; it is used in combination with de-oil spirit TF-104, and it is used for spandex oil and silicon. Auxiliaries have a good dispersion, emulsification, strong detergency, both desizing, scouring and washing effect.
For some customers, the feeling of cotton velvet in the opponent’s sense is higher, and the fabric needs to be opened using a cold pile. After opening the fiber through this method, the fabric has a soft feeling of cotton, which greatly improves the fabric feel and has a more drape. The fabric exhibits a low tension during the cold pile process, and the fibers can fully swell and release the internal stress generated during spinning and weaving, and better solve the problem that the fabric has different tension in the cylinder and wrinkles are easily generated. The process is carried out under normal temperature and pressure, the energy consumption is reduced, the chemical stability of the treatment liquid is good, the damage to the fiber is small, the process conditions are relatively relaxed, and the elasticity and strength of the spandex-containing fabric are effectively controlled.
2.2.2 Desizing
Process recipe / (gL-1):
Liquid alkali 30
TF-127K 2
Sodium tripolyphosphate 2
Temperature/°C 98
Speed/(m.min-1) 40
TF-127K has excellent permeability, emulsification, spit and dispersibility. It can be emulsified and decomposed with liquid caustic so as to prevent aggregation of the slurry. Sodium tripolyphosphate has a remarkable ability to chelate metal ions such as calcium and magnesium and is weakly alkali. Sex, non-corrosive, it has obvious effect in preventing anti-sticking of slurry and removing water stains. In this stage, the tension of the elasticizer of the desizing machine should be small, and the vehicle speed should be slow in order to reduce the damage to the elasticity of the fabric.
After OS-2000 sizing machine, it can further remove excess pulp on the fabric and eliminate wrinkles on the fabric, which is beneficial to the flatness of the fabric after dyeing.
2.3 Preform
Because the processed fabric contains spandex, it shrinks during the dyeing and finishing process due to the effect of moist heat, so it must be pre-formed prior to dyeing. Preformed mouth is to eliminate the internal stress of spandex, so that the quality indicators such as web width, mass per unit area, and fabric elasticity are stable, so as to prevent it from affecting the dyeing effect due to shrinkage in the dyeing process, and will not occur in the subsequent process. Big change. If the temperature is too high or the time is too long, the fabric will feel stiff and yellow. The strength and elasticity of the fabric will be damaged. If the temperature is too low and the time is too short, the wrinkle resistance will not be good and the effect will not be achieved. Therefore, we must strictly control the pre-form process conditions. Pre-determined shape must have a certain positive overfeed, and will roll down the tension bar. In the cloth feeding port, the fabric to be shaped should be evenly and loosely distributed in the cloth, so that it is in a low tension during the predetermined shape process.
Process conditions:
Temperature/°C 190
Speed/(m.min-1) 30
Overfeed/% 15
Width/cm 158
Table 2 Effect of Preformed Condition on Elasticity of Spandex
From Table 2, it can be seen that the higher the preset temperature and the longer the span, the greater the loss of spandex elasticity. After the temperature exceeds 190°C, the strength is significantly reduced, eventually leading to fracture.
2.4 Staining
Due to the characteristics of spandex fiber itself, if the dyeing conditions are not properly controlled, the spandex will become brittle, which will affect the elasticity of the fabric.
Polyester/spandex fabric dyeing should also reduce the tension of the fabric under high temperature conditions, otherwise the elastic recovery of the fabric after being stretched will be greatly affected. It is usually dyed with an overflow jet dyeing machine to keep the fabric in a relaxed state and avoid shrinkage.
Polyester fibers need to be dyed at high temperature and high pressure, while spandex is not resistant to high temperatures, especially under acidic or alkaline conditions, which can cause brittleness and strong strength of spandex filaments, resulting in broken filaments. In order not to embrittle the spandex fiber, it is mostly carried out at about 120°C, but at this time, high-temperature disperse dyes do not sufficiently dye polyester fibers. Therefore, disperse dyes that are compatible with dye reproducibility and color fastness and have low dependence on temperature and pH after finishing are used. In order to reduce the damage to spandex, the dyeing time is 40-60min, the pH value of the dyeing solution should be selected from 4-6, and the temperature rising process of dyeing should be controlled within 1°C/min, because the heating time will cause the color flower due to the lack of holding time. Rapid cooling will cause chicken paw prints and even color flowers. High-temperature leveler has excellent slowness, migration, high temperature dispersion, and good decolorization, help to improve the dyeing effect.
Process Conditions/(gL-1):
Glacial acetic acid 2
High temperature levelling agent TF-203 1.5
Sodium tripolyphosphate 2
Temperature/°C 120
Holding time/min 50
After dyeing, in order to remove the disperse dyes stained by the spandex component and the unfixed dyestuffs on the surface of the polyester, a reduction cleaning treatment must be performed. The acid reduction cleaning agent TF-110D has a good reduction and cleaning effect, and has a small color change. It can prevent spandex from staining, does not affect the effect of moisture absorption and perspiration, and eliminates the need for liquid drainage and neutralization. This shortens the process flow and saves time and resources.
Cleaning conditions:
TF-110D/% (omf) 1 to 3
Temperature/°C 85
Time/min 30
2.5 Finishing
Polyester/spandex fabrics should not be stored for too long after dyeing, otherwise the air-drying of fabrics can easily produce air-drying marks or chicken paw marks. Like the pre-determined shape, the finished product sets the whole process with low tension, uniformly distributes the fabric to be set evenly and loosely in the cloth car, and avoids the use of the A-shaped frame, so as to avoid excessive tension on the cloth and uneven tension during operation. Overfeeding should be based on the customer's requirements for fabric mass per unit area and elastic stretch rate.
The finishing of polyester/spandex elastic composite fabrics is an important process that determines the grade of the product. The fabric is subjected to functional finishing such as waterproof, soft, moisture wicking, antibacterial and deodorant to enhance the fabric's performance.
Process Conditions/(gL-1):
TG-410HN Water Repellent 20
Softening agent 15
Antistatic agent 10
Antibacterial Finishing Agent TF-619 40
Moisture wicking agent TF-620 20
Temperature/°C 185
Speed/(m.min-1) 30
Overfeed /% +15
Width/cm 155
3 Main technical indicators
The products of "Zhufeng Jiangnan" were inspected by the National Silk Quality Supervision and Inspection Center. The items inspected met the requirements of the superior products specified in GB/T 17253-2008 "Synthetic Fiber Silk Fabrics" standard, as shown in Table 3.
Table 3 “Technology Index of Everest Jiangnan†Fabric
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