A group of new wave designers are making more possibilities in the rise of social media in New York

Editors who came to New York Fashion Week from other countries may lament that the fashion show's schedule is considered too tight, and Raf Simons' Calvin Klein's fashion show has been cancelled. However, the ability of New York to embrace new fashion talents is growing over the past week. With the sun-drenched young designers such as Eckhaus Latta, Area and Vaquera at the heart of the city's alternative group, a new group of designers emerged this week, who seem to be bold, brave and sometimes extreme with their talents. Facing the harsh political and retail environment.

When you passed an inconspicuous area of ​​Canal Street last week, you might see Edwin Mohney's "Trumpetto" shoes in a shop window with Trump's rubber mask on the outside. Stunning high heels. He played an important role in last year's Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design fashion show. After his British visa expired, he returned to his hometown of Buffalo, New York, a freelancer who has been a stage costume designer. At the same time, he is also planning his next move as a fashion designer.

To maintain this momentum, Mohney rented a storefront on Canal Street from the store, Wallplay, and set up a new showcase for his graduate series. Wallplay plans to transform the empty storefront in the Soho center into an art exhibition area. Against the background of the discarded Kmart mannequin, the exhibition features exaggerated costumes resembling rubber chickens, as well as a vertical and horizontal plaid corset with clown wigs as skirts, all based on a transvestite culture. “The era we live in does not need to be divided between clothing and fashion. Everything is ambiguous,” he said.

On the other hand, Tokyo's emerging fashion designer Tomo Koizumi made his debut, stitching several meters of organza into a pleated human sculpture, and the whole series was inspired by the comics Sailor Moon and Buddha.

His first show will always be a legend in the fashion world, as the super stylist and editor of Love magazine Katie Grand pulled him out of the relatively obscure state through Instagram and offered to model his fashion show. The hairdressing team of Guido Palau and the makeup group of Pat McGrath served as the makeup for the conference.

A few days after the press conference, Koizumi was still uneasy about the sudden influx of attention and his next plan. “I don’t think I’m going to make a ready-to-wear collection,” he said. “I want to make custom orders or limited editions for some stores.” For him, the American dream symbolized by the Statue of Liberty – Marc Jacobs' T-shirt and soft candy ruffles – And the power of the Internet is very lively. "I will go back to New York. The people here are very hospitable. I feel very lucky. With social media, everything is possible, so if you do something great, push yourself to the world, good things. It will happen."

For Caroline Hu, it was the disillusionment of the corporate fashion system that prompted her to launch her own brand. After being discovered at the Parsons School of Design's big show last year, she started working for Jason Wu and Tory Burch, but soon discovered that it was not for her. “I hate that everything comes down to the budget,” she said. “Now I have my own brand. I want to take the time to solve the problem and use the next three or four series to truly establish my brand image. I don’t want to lose it. As the essence of the designer."

This is a series about the essence of beauty: the designer shows nine exquisite shapes, the stunning conference scene is similar to the impressionist painting, Henry Matisse's work "Woman in Reading" is the main inspiration for this series. Closer look, these dresses mimic the brushwork of the painting, overlaying different layers of cover fabric (usually using samples discarded by her previous employer) and adding delicate decals to it.

Looking at the exquisite dress hanging there, one can compare it to the brand created by Rodarte's Mulleavy sisters in 2005, when they dragged a box of dresses around New York and introduced their work to magazines one after another. . This is the beginning of a fairy tale. Today, designers can easily do it through Instagram private messages and WhatsApp, but Caroline Hu is eager for her work to be appreciated by people. She hopes to come slowly and only carefully with a few The selected retailer cooperates.

Carly Mark and Ayla Argentina chose to avoid business dealings. Artist Mark and her studio assistant, Argentina, have participated in countless group and individual art exhibitions, and now they are entering the fashion world with the brand Puppets and Puppets, joining a thriving DIY brand circle with Gogo Graham and Lou Dallas Together with such independent brands, the middle finger has been erected for the fashion mainstream.

Mark said: "I really have enough of the art world because it is very limited and exclusive. The best part is that in the fashion world, what we create is in a person in this world."

The whole series is inspired by the fantasy in The Game of Thrones, which dominates the rhythm of their work in fantasy. Mark said: "If people want to buy our clothes, we will go through them carefully. Maybe we will show a series every year. People are making their own rules, and this feeling is really free."

Mark and Argentina are generations who watched the fashion show on the Fashion TV show in a tent. Now, as New York Fashion Week continues to split into unexpected, more stimulating directions, a pseudo-glamorous image is disappearing and they are responding. Argentina said: “All of us are growing up in over-consumption. As artists, producers and creators, we are all struggling to fight excessive consumption and keep improving. That’s why we are all excited about each other. It feels good, don't feel that we have to help each other, make more money than the other, and become the loudest person in the room."